Try PC first? Why Carbon Fiber?
It warps, Polycarbonate filament (raw, non-cf) is incredibly hard to print. It requires a high end or an expensive modified printer with an 80-100°c heated enclosure.
This means all bed sensors will not operate, genuine Gates belts become loose, wiring has its current capacity halved or worse, stepper motors and hotend could have be liquid cooled, printed parts on the printer already need to be PC or better, linear rail end caps will melt, acrylic side panels will warp, fans will only pull hot air, shortly followed by their death, among other things.
PCCF on the other hand is a pleasure to print with no enclosure or drybox needed. Using a print cooling fan does not cause warp, no special high temp extruder or bed needed. Anet A8's and Ender 3's will print PCCF when using a hardened nozzle. Using an enclosure is still recommended for printers in a breezy area, or for peace of mind on larger prints. Using a drybox is not needed after initial drying, up to 2-3 weeks in open air (75% RH) before very minor stringing occurs.
Carbon fibers are not only beneficial for aesthetics and lightweightness, carbon fibers reduce the PC content and therefore the extruder temp, lower temp and carbon fibers brings a wealth of benefits!
• No stringing
• No blobbing
• No warp
• Great overhangs
• Great bridging
• Works in a Capricorn PTFE hotend.
Carbon fibers act as tiny scaffolds within extrusions which brings with it PLA-like printibility, a similar effect to fiber-crete concrete or stabilised earth. The same effect also gives polycarbonate more types of strength, certain applications require different categories of strength; shear, compression etc.
Brass nozzles will stay at spec for 75 grams of PCCF, so it will work for small prints but keep your spares handy as the nozzle will be bored way out of spec by the time the spool finishes.
Using a hardened steel nozzle is highly recommended, stainless steel will also work. Minimum size to guarantee no clogging is 0.4mm
Other suitable nozzle types include Ruby or Tungsten carbide
Filament production is a mostly underwater process with multiple baths, moisture will be in the filament right out of the bag, furthermore most vacuum bags do not block moisture transfer, always dry your new filaments from Sunny and every other brand too!
Recommended drying time: 3-4 hours
Recommended drying temperature: 60-65°c
Max Recommended drying time: 8 hours
Max Recommended drying temperature: 71°c
Low drying temperature is to preserve the spool itself, some PCCF spools have metal bolts and threaded inserts to be mindful of, if removed from spool a higher temp of 85°c+ can be used, with extra caution - Slow and steady is better!
Why is PCCF "so expensive"? Long carbon fibers require secret propietary methods to mix with the far denser plastic pellets, requiring 2 extrusions; most Chinese factories will use cf dust instead to streamline this procedure.
The base Polycarbonate is a highly modified polymer that I worked with a leading producer to create; supreme chemical+oil+UV resistance and amazing allround strength properties! Here are some comparison prices for other PCCF's, 3DX and Prusa are nice but too pricey. Everything else is basically 4x marked up chinese scams for inconsistent delaminating cf's
3DXTech ~ $160AUD/kg. Prusament ~ $130AUD/kg. Chinese dust-cf by Orvil3D $65AUD/kg! They import this for 14.3USD kg!
Found "Carbon-fills" for cheap? BEWARE! Chinese CF dust filaments are sold far and wide as "performance quality filament" When nothing is further from the truth, dusty low grade cf lowers the percentage of polymer links, resulting in terrible filaments. Save your time and buy Sunny, or buy both and see for yourself, buy a spool of Sunny and a spool from Siddament or Orvil3D and compare them
Sunny filament Printing Tips
Links back to product pages below
PCCF “Max” (discontinued)
Large Drone arm corners
Bambu Lab X1